Pocket Style Training Pants

A photo tutorial for sewing pocket style training pants with side snaps and fold-over elastic binding.

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For each trainer, cut one layer of waterproof fabric for the outer (PUL, ultrex, windpro, etc) and one layer of wicking fabric (Power Dry, microfleece, suedecloth, etc) for the inner.  If you prefer, an absorbant fabric (flannel, interlock, terry, etc) may be substituted for an inner layer which allows the child to feel wetness against their skin.  Transfer the pattern markings to the layers.  Mark snap socket placement and pocket opening placement on the inner layer.  Mark snap stud placement and gathering placement on the outer layer.

Begin by applying FOE to the pocket opening along the back of the inner lining.  Lay the FOE down, wrong side up, place the fabric into the crease of the FOE.  Angle FOE away from fabric edge.

Fold FOE over, enclosing raw edge of fabric.  The end of the FOE should extend off the edge of the fabric at an angle.

Stitch down FOE, using a three-step zig-zag (or wide plain zig-zag).  The innermost stitch of the zig-zag should be right at (or just over) the inner edge of the FOE.

When reaching the end of the pocket opening, angle the FOE off the edge of the fabric edge (similar to the beginning).

Close-up view showing the end of the FOE.

Now trim off the FOE ends at an angle, even with the edge of the fabric.

This photo shows the finished bound pocket opening on the inner layer.

If you haven't done so already, transfer the markings to the outer layer of the training pants.

Line up the markings for the pocket opening on the outer and inner layers.  Then tack down the ends of the FOE binding to the diaper outer, using a few zig-zag stitches to hold the pocket opening securely in position.

Pocket opening secured in place before joining layers.

Close-up look at outside layer.  Ends of FOE binding on pocket opening are tacked down with a few machine stitches.

Next you will use a glue stick to adhere the two layers together before binding with foe.  This will prevent the layers from shifting when you apply the FOE binding.  I prefer to use children's washable school glue sticks.  They are inexpensive, easy to use, and wash away cleanly.  Aerosol sprays used for quilt basting may also be used, but make certain you buy the type which is intended to wash out.

 Apply the glue stick all around the outside of the waterproof layer, wrong side up.  Then adhere to the inner layer.  Layers are placed wrong sides together.

The trainer will look like this before applying the FOE. 

Next you will apply FOE to the short edges of all four 'wings'.  Lay the FOE down and place the fabric edge on top, making sure the raw edge is all the way to the center of the FOE.  Leave 1/2"-1" of FOE extending beyond the edge of the fabric.

Fold the FOE over and begin stitching down, using the three-step zig-zag.When applying FOE to straight edges, do not stretch.  Make sure raw edge of fabric is pushed all the way to the center fold of the FOE.  Sew in short increments, stopping to check fabric position, readjust, and reposition the FOE.  Whenever you stop, stop with needle down and in the leftmost position (this prevents fabric and FOE from shifting).

After applying FOE to each of the short edges of the trainer wings, trim the edges of the FOE off even with the fabric edges.

Next, you'll be applying FOE binding to the back of the diaper, which has the pocket opening.  Begin as before, with a 1/2"-1" 'tail' of FOE extending beyond the fabric edge (this time you do NOT trim the 'tail' off, it will be folded under and stitched down to finish).

 Stitch down the initial section of the binding, up to the mark where you are to begin gathering.  Stop with needle down.  This will be just before the pocket opening (seen here beneath the top pul layer). 

You will need to make sure to catch the end of the pocket FOE underneath as you apply the FOE binding to the back (you can see the stitches here where the end was tacked down.)

Be careful to keep the remaining pocket binding underneath pushed to the side and out of the way of your stitching.

When you finish binding the back edge of the pants, the pocket opening will be stitched down at either end and open in the center.

If desired, you may zig-zag over the binding an additional time at the ends of the pocket opening (this is optional, but recommended).  Since the pocket opening is under stress when you stuff and unstuff the diaper, the extra stitching provides reinforcement.

Now, finish binding the remaining diaper edges, stretching the FOE as you sew it down to gather along the leg openings and the front edge.

 When gathering only two layers, it is generally not necessary to stretch the FOE completely taut.  I find that 60-75% of maximum stretch is usually adequate.  It is helpful to apply FOE in small segments, stopping often (with needle down in fabric at leftmost needle position) to reposition fabric, make sure fabric edge is fully encased in FOE and reposition your hands to guide the fabric.

Here is the pant with FOE applied.   At this point, I recommend folding the pant in half down the midline to check to make sure that both leg openings are gathered to the same size.  Carefully line up the edges to ensure that they are equal.  If not, reapply the FOE or you will have a pant with different sized leg openings.

Fold the ends of the FOE extensions under to the wrong side of the pant and stitch down.

Illustration of folded under ends.  Next you will trim these off close to the line of stitching.

You may leave these ends raw if desired (they won't ravel, but will get a bit fuzzy in the wash).

I prefer to zig-zag stitch back and forth a few times over the raw edges to finish them.  This prevents any fraying. 

Here is the training pant, finished and waiting to have snaps applied.  I've used paper clips to show how it will look when snapped up.  Snap studs are applied to the smaller front wings, with the cap facing outward and the socket facing inward.  Snap sockets are applied to the wider back wings, with the cap facing inward and socket facing outward.

 ©2005 Chloe Toes

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